The House of Rolex
Hans Wilsdorf: The Vision Behind the Rolex Brand

We want to be the first, and Rolex will be regarded as number one only.
Hans Wilsdorf

Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of Rolex, was a visionary entrepreneur who transformed the watchmaking industry by combining precision, durability, and prestige. His spirit of innovation and dedication to excellence made Rolex the most recognized luxury watch brand in the world.

Rolex holds a unique place in both the history of watchmaking and in the hearts of collectors. Founded in 1905 in England, the brand embodies the vision of a man ahead of his time: Hans Wilsdorf. In 1900, at just 19 years old, this German entrepreneur entered the watchmaking business. He quickly foresaw that “pocket watches would completely disappear and be permanently replaced by wristwatches.” Driven by that conviction, he decided to invest in this emerging market.

In 1905, Hans Wilsdorf partnered with his brother-in-law, Alfred Davis, to create Wilsdorf & Davis, a company specializing in affordable wristwatches. Just three years later, in 1908, Wilsdorf found the name that would enter legend: Rolex.

In 1914, the company was renamed The Rolex Watch Company Ltd., and in the same year received a Class A precision certificate from the prestigious Kew Observatory in England — the first ever awarded to a wristwatch. Until then, only marine chronometers had earned that distinction. At a time when precision was the ultimate battleground among watchmakers, Rolex established itself as a leading brand, only a few years after its founding.

In 1915, the company moved permanently to Switzerland and turned to a new challenge: protecting movements from dust and water. During the 1920s, a true race for water resistance took place within the watch industry. Every manufacturer sought to create a perfectly sealed case to protect the movement from moisture. Rolex and Patek Philippe competed in this field and, interestingly, as Jeffrey Hess and James Dowling note in “Rolex Wristwatches: An Unauthorized History,” both brands turned to the same case maker, François Borgel, experimenting with screw-down casebacks to achieve water resistance.

Then, in 1926, Rolex introduced a groundbreaking invention: the Oyster — a perfectly hermetic case allowing the time to be easily adjusted thanks to a screw-down crown.

In 1931, Rolex innovated once again by developing the first self-winding movement. Featuring a rotor that kept the mainspring wound, the Oyster Perpetual became the first wristwatch that did not require manual winding. From its inception, Rolex made innovation its driving force, securing an enduring position at the forefront of watchmaking.

Since the 1950s, Rolex has defined the concept of the “professional watch,” introducing legendary models that remain icons today, with only subtle evolutions over time:
● Explorer (1953) : Created after the first ascent of Mount Everest.
● Submariner (1954) : The world’s first professional diving watch.
● GMT-Master (1955) : Designed to allow airline pilots to track multiple time zones.
● Daytona (1963) : A chronograph created for professional race car drivers.

The Hans Wilsdorf Legacy Through Rolex Today

Hans Wilsdorf’s vision made Rolex the most influential luxury watch brand in history.
In 1960, following his death, the Rolex Foundation ensured that the company would remain privately owned and committed to excellence. Rolex continues to pioneer horology, upholding the same principles of innovation, reliability, and prestige envisioned by Wilsdorf.

Through him, the wristwatch became more than a simple accessory — it became a precision instrument and a global symbol of status. His forward-thinking approach and relentless pursuit of quality made Rolex synonymous with excellence. Today, Rolex remains firmly at the top of the watchmaking world — a position it has never relinquished.

The Chronograph: Rolex’s Legendary Complication

The chronograph is undeniably Rolex’s signature complication. Introduced in the mid-1930s with the reference 2508, a collector’s piece whose lines recall the Calatrava, Rolex chronographs have since achieved unparalleled renown and are among the most sought-after pieces in the vintage market.

One notable model is the reference 3525, launched in 1939 — the first chronograph housed in an Oyster case. In the 1940s, Rolex introduced cases with a more structured design: the lugs, once gently curved, became straight with sharp edges. The reference 4500 perfectly illustrates this stylistic evolution and remains one of the few chronographs featuring only two subdials.

Among Rolex chronographs, some have attained near-mythical status, such as the extremely rare reference 4113, the only split-seconds chronograph ever produced by Rolex. With its oversized 44 mm case — a record for the brand — this watch became the favorite of racing legend Sir Malcolm Campbell, who in 1935 set a world speed record.

In the 1950s, Rolex introduced new references marking the dawn of the modern chronograph: 6034, 6234, and the famed 6238. Known as the “Pre-Daytonas,” these 36 mm models heralded a new era in chronograph design and paved the way for what has become the most coveted of all Rolex watches: the Daytona.

The Latest Rolex Results at Aguttes:


The Rolex Daytona
Ref. 6262
“Paul Newman”
“Dark Chocolate Dial” sold for €705,399
at the collectors’ watch auction on December 9, 2024.


The Rolex Daytona
Ref. 6264
“Champagne Dial” sold for €223,600
at the collectors’ watch auction on March 25, 2025.


The Rolex Daytona
Ref. 6241
“Paul Newman” sold for €271,560
at the collectors’ watch auction on July 2, 2024.

Next Auction
Collector’s Watches
Monday, December 8, 2025

For more information or to include a lot in our upcoming auctions, please contact
Department Director
Claire Hofmann
+33 7 49 97 32 28 - hofmann@aguttes.com